Travel

  • A Creek I Didn’t Mean to Fall Into

    It was one of those gray SF days. Pandemic era. Everything was closed. I had been in the Bay Area for a bit, but I hadn’t really left the city much. Still very much a San Francisco rookie.

    One day I decided to take the first BART train to “anywhere” and see what happened. It was me, my helmet, and a 1972 blue Schwinn. That bike was the first and is still one of the most important things I’ve ever bought here. Civic Center Station was empty and weirdly echoey. Five minutes later I was sitting on a Yellow Line train headed to a place called Antioch. Never heard of it before. Felt like a good start.

    Then the journey began.
    Arrived in Oakland.
    Still gray and probably cold.
    Let’s keep going.

    Then something changed

    The train went through a short tunnel and suddenly everything was different.

    Bright blue sky.
    Warm air.
    Green everywhere.

    It felt like I had crossed a border I didn’t know was there. Like stepping into a different world without customs. Turns out that was Orinda. I had just discovered the magic wall that is the Oakland Berkeley hills. The same hills that trap SF fog like an overachieving gatekeeper.

    I stepped off the train in awe. The sun hit different. The neighborhoods hit different. Rolling hills, bike paths, tree-lined creeks, a place that felt like it wasn’t trying to be cool and somehow already was. Like a scene from Stand by Me. I explored Orinda, Lafayette, Danville and eventually Walnut Creek. By the time I rode back home, I was obsessed. I told my roommates we should move. A few weeks later, we did.

    That was the start of all this.

    I’m writing this now from Walnut Creek, after spending the day walking downtown, riding the free shuttle that still feels like a small miracle. Free public transportation felt like something out of science fiction, especially coming from Brazil where the answer to that idea was always a loud no from anyone in a suit.

    Contra Costa County figured out a way. County Connection, local taxes, partnerships and maybe some leftover 70s optimism. It’s not perfect but it works, and it still blows my mind. This whole thing allowed us to not have a car and rely on bike paths and public transportation.

    I’ve met incredible people here. Folks from Sustainable Walnut Creek, SCOCO, city staff, retired scientists, former mayors, teenage activists. I somehow ended up organizing Earth Month events and even a climate march. Things I never pictured myself doing. Turns out if you spend enough time outside and say yes to enough random emails, unexpected things happen. And you meet people you actually want to see again.

    Making friends as an adult isn’t easy. Making friends while cycling and volunteering is almost like cheating. You keep bumping into the same faces. You see someone having a picnic and it turns into a conversation. Then another. That’s how it starts.

    I became so obsessed with Walnut Creek that I decided to bike/run every single street. No idea why. I’m at 75 percent, around 231 miles out of 307 and I’ve covered around 20 percent of Contra Costa County. Even gated communities couldn’t stop me. Sometimes I would wait for someone to open the gate and sprint in like a raccoon. If you saw complaints about a confused cyclist on Nextdoor, that was probably me.

    Then there’s Mount Diablo

    My first time climbing it took me seven hours. Same old Schwinn. I had a crisis halfway up. I promised myself I would never do that again. But when a mountain stares you in the face every morning, you eventually give in. I’ve climbed it many times since then (New bike though). Once I even saw snow falling at the summit. It was unreal. I once challenged myself to climb it seven times in one day. Never made it past one and a half.

    Walnut Creek is framed by hills and a mountain that keeps refusing to stay in the background. It’s a place that doesn’t care if you quit halfway. It waits. It just keeps being itself.

    Bookworm life

    The libraries here are wild. Some are over 100 years old, started by women’s clubs who also organized community festivals and clean-ups. Many of the city council members over the decades have been women. That kind of energy sticks to a place. I live close to the Pleasant Hill Library now, which might be the best place on earth on Saturday mornings, especially after a coffee from Rooted Coffee in Poet’s Corner.

    Once Leandra caught me sleeping in the library, I officially became one of those elderly people who nap there.

    I’ve spent years trying to understand what exactly this city does to me. Why it keeps pulling me in. Maybe it’s the weather. Maybe it’s the bike paths. Maybe it’s the fact that people bring up things like graywater systems in casual conversation.

    Maybe it’s something else. Maybe it’s just the feeling that a place can start as an accident and somehow end up as home.

    Whatever it is, I’m still here. And it still feels right.

    Lately though, there’s been a quiet itch. Not to leave for good, but to look around. To see if there’s another corner of this country that feels this charged, this accidental and somehow perfect.

    I don’t know what I’ll find. I don’t know if I’ll find anything. But I do know that no matter where I go, a part of me will always be here. Somewhere between the library and the mountain and the street I haven’t ridden yet.

    And there are the people. The ones I’ve shared bike rides and late-night strategy meetings and awkward first hellos with. Leaving means risking the kind of drift that happens when life changes shape. I’m not ready to lose that. I hope geography doesn’t get the final say on who stays close.


  • No Bags, Thank You (But Definitely Love)

    Ten years ago I was budgeting my backpacking trip in Luxemburg, and grocery stores were my go-to for breakfast, lunch and dinner (romantic, I know). I didn’t expect to fall in love inside one. But the cashier was Portuguese. Cute. So cute. Ridiculously cute. I spent the rest of the day thinking about that tiny moment. The only thing I managed to say was:

    “No bags, thank you.”

    Then I left town and never saw that person again.

    Until…

    A year later, in another tiny grocery store on a small island off the south of the south of South America, I found another cute Portuguese. Ninety-four percent Azores DNA (according to herself, not 23andMe). This time I didn’t let it slip. I married her.

    Still no bags, thank you. Just love.


  • Life in Chinatown

    Some film production is happening in our front yard. I wish this were Jessica Alba’s new movie. ❤️


  • The Monster Poster

    It started with a very uncommitted meeting at ACATE (Brazilian startup incubator), a lot of people talking about their businesses and a group of investors sizing them up, and then suddenly we were one of the best startups to invest in in Brazil. Which is how we ended up at a conference in São Paulo, where the big companies and the investor groups go to talk about opportunities and demands. Now we had to be a little bit more committed.

    The conference started on Monday morning and we turned up without any information about the schedule, because they were still closing the meetings and the talks. Our first problem, or challenge, caused by that lack of organisation, was the size of our poster. We had printed an enormous one and the space they gave the startups was small. Everybody else had printed a poster about a quarter the size of ours. I was a little embarrassed putting our monster up next to them, but there it is, and Paulista Avenue on the Sunday had already taught me that diversity is beautiful.

    The next challenge was finding the big companies who were interested in our business. Our first meeting was with IBM. They have an innovation department and they’re looking for new markets, which is what we read in their meeting proposal. What actually happened is that after we talked about our business, they sadly began selling their products to us. 🙁

    The day had only just started and our expectations were already going down.

    Selling huge solutions to startups is like selling houses to homeless people. They really do need a comfortable, safe house. For now they’re out on Paulista Avenue and what they need is a job and some food.


  • The Last Trip

    Once upon a time in my YouTuber career I started a channel called The Last Trip. It was about unknown places that are going to disappear, for all sorts of reasons, or that could be great places to develop tourism.

    On one of those trips it very nearly was my last. I already think of myself as someone who has no idea how to calculate a risk, but I never imagined that would take me all the way to a near death experience.

    The town is called Muçum (Brazil). Leandra and I had gone looking for the highest railway viaduct in the Americas, and more than that, we were curious about the stories around the building of it.

    One of those stories is from the construction, which happened during the military dictatorship. A soldier fell into a column and they carried on pouring the concrete. That one got me, and I decided to season it a bit, inventing a few other details, hoping to build a proper myth out of it so that one day somebody would make a great film about the Concreted Soldier.

    The view from Viaduct 13, the big one, is astonishing, with an array of tunnels and viaducts crossing the mountains.

    I decided to go into one of the tunnels because of the story about the windows halfway in. Luckily, or not, I picked the right tunnel. I found the windows and I also found the near death.

    After taking some shots of the windows I started back. I couldn’t see the tunnel mouth because the tunnel curves, so I was in complete darkness and my head torch was a joke. It was fine. I was so pleased about the windows and about the whole trip, and everything was going well up until that moment.

    Those tunnels are small and damp and the air in there is heavy, so I was walking slowly to avoid putting a foot down in the wrong place. While I was waiting to see the opening I started to hear a continuous sound with a vibration under it. I froze. A train was coming.

    I ran. It was hard because the floor is uneven and one mistake would put me on the ground. What they say about your life flashing in front of you is completely true, and in my case I finally understood why the channel was called The Last Trip.

    The sound kept getting louder and I couldn’t tell whether the vibration was my heart or the train behind me. When I finally saw the opening I ran faster than I have ever run, and when I looked up there was Leandra kicking little stones about. She was in danger too and had no idea.

    “The train is coming”, I screamed. She didn’t hear me and she didn’t move. That’s it, I thought, I’m going to die and Leandra is going to die too, and what a stupid idea it was to come here, I’m an idiot. My mother always told me to be careful and not do stupid things. My father wanted me to plan my trips and read everything about a place before going. According to my brother I was crazy and would catch some disease out here. Not one of them ever mentioned dying.

    A chill went up my spine and my last few steps inside the tunnel felt lighter, so I assume my soul had already started leaving my body to get clear of the disaster. I grabbed Leandra’s hand and jumped off the track, into the small gap between the tunnel and the viaduct. The train was right behind me and moving fast, and when it came out of the tunnel the noise was like an enormous laugh, almost deafening. Possibly it was god laughing.

    The train, as it turns out, was not a train. It was a sort of track cleaning machine, there to clean idiots off the face of the earth, or rather to teach me not to play around in railway tunnels, viaducts, soldiers’ souls, and funny names for YouTube channels.